• • Getting Started
    • How do I install the software?
    • Where can I find my activation code?
    • Where can I find the class tutorials?
    • How can I keep up to date with new lessons and announcements?
  • Software Basics
    • Is EL Digitizing Software beginner-friendly?
    • Is there a demo for the software?
    • What do I need to start using EL Digitizing Software?
    • What are the system requirements?
    • Do I need a tablet, or can I use a mouse?
    • Is it Mac compatible?
  • Features & Functions
    • What file formats can be imported and exported?
    • Does EL Digitizing Software have auto-digitizing?
    • Is there a multi-hooping function?
  • Updates & Support
    • What happens with updates and upgrades?
    • Do I get tech support and software updates?
    • How can I check if I have the latest version?
    • How do I download the most up-to-date version?
  • Learning & Education
    • Are there tutorials available for beginners?
    • Can I purchase masterclasses separately?
    • Will my lessons be available indefinitely if I buy them later?
    • Where can I find answers to common questions?
  • Pricing & Subscription
    • Is there a payment plan or financing option?
    • Is there a yearly subscription fee?

1. Getting Started

How do I install the software?

• Installing the software is easy! After your purchase, you’ll receive an email with a link to download the installer.
• Alternatively, you can log in to your account and go to the “Orders” tab. Next to your EL Software purchase, you’ll see a zip file. Simply click the zip link to download to your computer’s Downloads folder automatically.

Where can I find my activation code?

• It will be on your email sent after you purchased the software. Or if you login to your account, check your Orders and see the Embroidery Legacy Digitizing Software product. The serial number will be listed beside the EL Digitizer Software product.

Where can I find the class tutorials?

• Where can I find the class tutorials? Simply log in to your Digitizing Made Easy account and navigate to the Classroom tab. From there, select the EL Digitizer Software | Accelerated Learning Experience course and click Enter Course. Follow along with John and Ken as they guide you step by step through your embroidery journey—just start at the top of the list and work your way down! Take your time—it’s not a race! Learn at your own pace and enjoy the process.

How can I keep up to date with new lessons and announcements?

• To stay in the loop, join our exclusive Facebook group, Embroidery Legacy Digitizing Software | Inner Circle Experience. It’s a great place to find new lessons, helpful tips, and tricks and connect with our supportive community. Feel free to ask any software-related questions – we’re here to help!
• Not on Facebook? No problem! We also send out a weekly newsletter to our Inner Circle members, packed with the latest lessons, updates, and important announcements, so you’ll never miss out.

2. Software Basics

Is EL Digitizing Software beginner-friendly?

• Yes! EL Digitizing Software is designed to be user-friendly, even for beginners. Plenty of tutorials are available to guide you through the basics, from installing the software to creating your first design.

Is there a demo for the software?

• Not yet, but we’re working on it! A demo will be available in the near future, so stay tuned.

What do I need to start using EL Digitizing Software?

• You’ll need a compatible computer and software to get started with EL Digitizing Software. The system requirements may vary, so check the specifications before installation. A mouse works, but many find using a tablet helpful for precision.

What are the system requirements?

• Here are the recommended requirements: 
  • OS: Microsoft® Windows® 10, 11
  • CPU: Multicore Intel® or AMD processor, 2 GHz with 64-bit support
  • RAM: 8 GB
  • Hard Disk Space: 1 GB
  • Display Resolution: 1366×768
  • Recommended for best performance RAM : 16GB 
  • Display Resolution:  1920×1080.

Do I need a tablet, or can I use a mouse?

• A mouse can work, but many users find a tablet or stylus much easier for detailed work, especially when creating intricate designs. Tablets help improve precision during the digitizing process. You can check out John’s recommended pen tablet monitor products here. 

Is it Mac compatible?

• The software is currently not natively compatible with Mac. However, if you have Parallels with Windows installed, you can run it on a Mac. If a native Mac version is released in the future, it will be included for those who have purchased the PC version.

3. Features & Functions

What file formats can be exported?

• Embroidery machine file formats include CSD, DST, EMD, EXP, HUS, JEF, PCS, PES, SEW, SHV, VIP, VP3, XXX
• Quilting machine file formats include CQP, DXF, HQF, IQP, PAT, PLT, SSD, TXT

Does EL Digitizing Software have auto-digitizing?

• Yes, it includes auto-digitizing features, which help streamline the digitizing process. However, it’s best for simple designs. For more detailed or complex embroidery, manual digitizing is often needed.

Is there a multi-hooping function?

• Multi-Hooping is on the future features list. It is not a focal point as every program we’ve seen produced mediocre results. Difficulty with lining up and visual quality issues where designs are split. Our multi hooping feature will be compatible to others in that they never produce the same results you get with not splitting a design.

4. Updates & Support

What happens with updates and upgrades?

• Regular software updates are completely free! However, major version upgrades that introduce new features will be optional and available as paid upgrades.

Do I get tech support and software updates?

• Yes, tech support and software updates are included with your purchase, ensuring you have ongoing assistance and access to new features and fixes.

How can I check if I have the latest version?

• Click the three dots at the top of the software, select the About tab, and look at the top line to see your build version.

How do I download the most up-to-date version?

• Simply log in to your account, navigate to the Downloads tab, find your EL Digitizing Software product, and click on the associated ZIP file to download the most up-to-date version.

5. Learning & Education

Are there tutorials available for beginners?

• Absolutely! There are lots of beginner-friendly tutorials to help you get started. You can find step-by-step tutorials in your Classroom on digitizing, creating designs, and using specific tools within the software.

Can I purchase masterclasses separately?

• Yes! If you want more in-depth training, you can purchase masterclasses (when they’re available at a future date) that cover advanced techniques and workflows for digitizing with EL Digitizing Software.

Will my lessons be available indefinitely if I buy them later?

• Once you purchase a course or tutorial, you’ll have ongoing access to the material, so you can review it whenever you need as you continue your embroidery journey.

Where can I find answers to common questions?

• You can check out the FAQ section or access the user support section for answers to common questions. Additionally, our Facebook group is a great place where users often share solutions.

6. Pricing & Subscription

Is there a payment plan or financing option?

• At this time there is no payment plan option, but we are currently looking into options – there will be a payment plan for the near future.

Is there a yearly subscription fee?

• No, the software is available for a one-time purchase—no annual subscription required.

When will I receive the bonuses included with my software purchase?

• All bonuses will be available in June 2025, when our new website launches.

• “What is the best embroidery digitizing software?” 
• “Which embroidery digitizing software programs are easy to use?”

Most embroidery digitizing software programs have the essential tools to create an embroidery design file. All embroidery software has the ability to use the three main stitch types; therefore, they can all accomplish (for the most part) the same result.

However, what does differ is the advanced digitizing tools and features that make creating designs easier. Some do require more leg work with manually inputting ‘stitch settings,’ while others are more advanced as they help automate the process and speed things up for you. For this reason, please note that:

Things to Consider When Looking Into Embroidery Digitizing Software:

Personal Preference

As with anything in life, people have different preferences. Your background and the type of embroidery work you plan to create will probably, in some way, impact your decision more than anything else.

Do Your Research

Reputable Embroidery Software Brands & Embroidery Education

Should I Buy Through A Dealer Store Or Online?

Honestly, this depends on how much one-on-one assistance you think you’ll need with the basics. I endorse supporting your local dealer if you think their support justifies the extra cost.

Instead, it can be because there are more sales channels that software has to go through before it reaches your hands. The brick-and-mortar store, regional sales coordinator, and of course, software manufacturers all need to profit.

Paying your dealer for help is okay if you need a lot of assistance with the basics. They deserve to get paid for their work and efforts.

Do You Need To Buy Software Specific To Your Embroidery Machine Brand?

To be fair, although you don’t need it, sometimes some bells and whistles come from having the same brand of machine and software. Things like wireless connection can be significant motivating factors for some.

However, when it comes to creating embroidery projects and digitizing in particular, there aren’t any huge advantages to buying software specific to your machine brand. In fact, you usually just end up paying more.

Where Can You Get Embroidery Software Support/Help?

There’s always a slight learning curve when it comes to learning anything new.

Education is key! Our lessons help an incredible amount when learning how to digitize, but sometimes you have questions about how to do something or where to find a tool. Although Google is an awesome resource, sometimes it’s easiest just to post your question online, where live humans can answer.

See if Embroidery Digitizing is Something You’re Really Interested In First

Now, I realize that some embroiderers don’t fully understand what digitizing is or if it’s something you’ll really want to invest your time into. For this reason, I created a Free Embroidery Digitizing 101 Video Course with a Cheat Sheet PDF.

It’s the perfect starting point to teach you the basic digitizing principles that EVERY embroiderer should know, like stitch types, underlay, pull compensation, and more. Trust me, whether you want to digitize or not, the theory you’ll learn here will help you achieve better-embroidered results.

My Suggestion? Check Out Embroidery Legacy Digitizing Software for Simplified Design Creation

If you’re searching for a powerful yet easy-to-use digitizing solution, Embroidery Legacy Digitizing Software is the perfect choice. It streamlines the digitizing process, allowing you to focus on creativity rather than complexity.

Unlike traditional software that may feel overly complicated, EL Digitizer features a modern, intuitive interface and smart automation tools that make embroidery design creation effortless—just like switching from a manual to an automatic car! ??

With EL Digitizer, you can:

• Work smarter, not harder with innovative, next-generation features
• Skip the frustration with a non-cluttered, user-friendly workspace
• Turn ideas into stunning embroidery designs—quickly and easily

Whether you’re new to digitizing or a seasoned pro, this software simplifies the digitizing process and helps you create with confidence.

Ready to upgrade your embroidery experience? Discover how simple digitizing can be with EL Digitizer Software!

Conclusion: Discover if Digitizing is Right for You—Then Make an Informed Choice!

As you know, you need to consider many factors when looking into digitizing software. However, the main thing to remember is to look for a reputable brand with quality education and support.

If you’re ready to create stunning embroidery designs and want our top recommendation, explore our revolutionary new Embroidery Legacy Digitizing Software. With its modern, clutter-free interface and next-generation tools, designing has never been easier—or faster!

I hope this helps you narrow your search for embroidery digitizing software. If you have any questions, we’re always happy to help.

This article explains four important fill machine embroidery stitches: satin, tatami, embossed, and motif fill. These stitches can make your embroidery look amazing. Whether you are a pro or just starting, this guide will help you pick and use the best fills for any project.

Ready to level up your stitching? Let’s dive in!

Satin Stitch in Embroidery

Satin stitches are commonly used for outlines, lettering, lines, and small shapes. Did you know you can also use them to fill areas? Remember that what you see on screen might look harsher than when it’s stitched. Don’t let that throw you off!

Here are some examples of the satin stitch used to fill.

The satin stitch can be a very gentle fill.

Another satin option is the “auto split” function. This feature tells the machine to stop in the object’s center to shorten the satin stitch length. Auto split keeps the satin fill intact, but it has a maximum stitch length of 7 mm, which is the maximum recommended for clothing. Any longer, you run the risk of snags or breaks with wear.

Below is an example of the satin stitch with the auto split turned on (left) and off (right).

As you can see, this object is larger than 7 mm, so the digitizing software adjusts the stitches and blends them nicely. While the change is subtle in the image above, the final result looks fantastic!

Aside from issues like snagging or puckering with long satin stitches, there’s another common problem. Have you ever used a satin fill? Did you notice the machine stitching on one side, tying it off, and then stitching the other side?

This happens repeatedly because most machines have a stitch length limit of 10 mm (some go up to 12 mm). When the stitch exceeds that limit, the machine says “nope” and ties off.

1. Select Satin Fill, draw your object, and select
2. Open the properties tool
3. Under the auto split tab, you can choose to turn on or off the “split”

If an object is too large for the chosen stitch length, it won’t stitch properly, leaving a gap. To resolve this, simply turn on the “auto split” option.

Overall, the satin stitch can be a great choice when used correctly.

Let’s look at some other fill types!

Tatami Stitch in Embroidery

Tatami stitch looks like a brick pattern inspired by tatami mats in Japan.

The design features a gentle texture with a more matte finish. You can use it in many ways, from an underlay to a fill, and it remains super stable.

Tatami is perfect for large areas, but it does have limitations.

The tatami stitch does not like small holes cut into it! Holes actually create more stitches, so if you’re trying to save stitches, remove that hole. When designing, it is best to embroider on top of the tatami rather than cut a little hole for another object.

Here is an example of an object with holes cut out to add highlights.

1. Select the object in which you want holes
2. In your Toolbox, select “Create Holes.”
3. Draw the shape of the hole you would like to create
4. Press enter

The holes in the object create many extra stitches. This happens because the tatami stitch needs stitches to stop and turn at each edge.

Since tatami has so many stitches you can have issues of pulling. Pull happens when the stitches cause the fabric to contract and can result in shifting (when the lines don’t meet up).

Want to learn more about push & pull compensation? Take a look at this video:

Don’t be misled into thinking that making the stitches longer will make the pull less… it is actually the opposite!  Shorter stitches will create less pull.

Tatami is terrific for larger areas or as a fill below other stitches.  It can be altered in the following ways:

• Use it as a background to your design

• Change the fill density to an exceptionally loose fill and use it for a special mylar effect!

• Use a loose fill to create blending!

Using the Embroidery Legacy Digitizer Software, you can create color gradients by blending. You can combine color and density to create the ombre effect. 

Color blending happens by making an object filled with tatami. Then, you duplicate this object. Next, change the duplicate to a new color.

Finally, apply gradient fills to blend the colors. Adjust one fill to face upward and the other downward for a smooth color transition.

We started with a loosely filled circle. 

Next, we’ll create crescents by working from dark (dense) to light (loose), using the same circle size while adjusting the fill density. We’ll also modify the node shapes to form the crescent shape effortlessly.

Embossed Fills in Embroidery

Like patterns can be woven into rugs or fabric, tatami stitching can create amazing embroidery designs. Adjusting the length of the stitches forms gaps where the stitches meet, revealing the design within the texture.

EL Digitizer offers a wide range of creative options! With the software, you can create unique variations of the tatami stitch that give an embossed effect. Here’s how to achieve this look:

1. Select your object
2. Choose the Convert To FIll tool
3. After opening the Properties tool select the Fancy Option
4. Select your desired fill

Here is what an embossed fill looks like

The possibilities are endless, and you can create your own using your embroidery digitizing software.

Motif Fills in Embroidery

Motif fills are made with running stitches. One popular style looks like the traditional Japanese embroidery called sashiko. Originally developed for mending clothes, sashiko uses simple running stitches to create beautiful, decorative patterns.

To create an amazing embossed fill simply create an object and then change the fill to an embossed fill.

1. Select your object
2. Choose the Fancy Fill option
3. Open your properties tool
4. Select Motif fill
5. Choose your fill pattern
6. Play around with the size of your fill- you can get amazing results

Here is the stitch out:

You can create a filled object and then switch that fill to a “motif” pattern. Motifs are small, repeating elements used to fill the design.

As these motifs approach the edge of the design, they are trimmed to maintain a smooth, uninterrupted shape. You can customize the motifs by adjusting their size, spacing, and placement to fit your design perfectly.

Tips for Fill Stitches in Machine Embroidery

Here are some tips for creating better fills for your embroidery:

• Think satin for smaller, tatami for larger.
• Combine fills in different designs for a beautiful contrast.
• Always stitch out a sample on a material similar to your finished product.
• Change the stitch angle and experiment with stamping, embossing, and more.

Experiment with these techniques to find the perfect fit for your next creation and enhance your embroidery skills like never before!

P.S. Check out our Embroidery Legacy Digitizer Software—your next-level embroidery journey starts here!

Nodes are the unsung heroes of digitizing, the building blocks that shape every line and curve. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting, understanding embroidery nodes is vital to unlocking your creative potential.

So, what exactly is a node? Simply put, it’s a control point that dictates the shape and flow of your lines. After mastering digitizing node adjustments, you’ll be able to create stunning and accurate designs.

In real terms, a node is like a bead on a wire. Just like Connect the Dots!  

Now, imagine that using different types of beads changes how the wire comes out.

When you draw a line in the Design Doodler or any embroidery software, the nodes control the line’s shape. They determine how the line curves, moves, starts, and stops. Adjusting the shape of the nodes can help you refine and enhance your design.

Here is what a bunch of nodes look like in a Design Doodler design!

When we examine each one, it looks the same: a small square with a line of stitching running through it. When you select a node, red handles appear. Click and drag these handles to rotate the node or adjust the intensity of the effect on either side of it.

The further you pull the red handles apart, the larger the curve will be. The closer you push them together, the smaller the curve.

The number of nodes in a shape depends on its complexity. Simple shapes like squares and triangles have minimal nodes. Complex shapes like circles have more, and intricate shapes or hand-drawn lines can have hundreds.

What Happens When I Change Node Types?

We can change nodes to get different effects. You can select, add, or delete nodes by:

• Selecting an object. 
• Selecting the “Path Edit” tool.
• Select the Properties Docker to decide what happens to these nodes.

Let’s look at each type of node.

Straight: This is a straight line (point to point) on either side of the node.

Smooth: Smooth nodes create a smooth curve from one point to the next. They are similar to straight nodes, but straight nodes have no handles, while smooth nodes do.

Symmetrical: Symmetrical nodes create mirrored curves. Any changes you make to one side of the node will reflect on the other side.

Cusp: Cusp nodes create sharp, V-shaped corners, which can also be curved. Converting existing nodes to cusp nodes doesn’t change the appearance until you adjust the handles. These nodes act as anchor points, allowing you to create sharp, pointed curves.

How does changing nodes affect the line?

All these nodes are symmetrical, so each side mirrors the other. However, the curves may appear different depending on where a node is to the next node.

Here is the same doodle with all smooth: 

And this one is all cusp:

The effect is very different in each one!  

Experiment with switching up the nodes and mixing and matching different types. You’ll be amazed at the variety of lines you can create!

Where are we going with all this?

Can you design a Doodle using a mouse? Absolutely!

Let’s start with a square.

Let’s add a node in the middle of each flat side.

What happens if we were to move those nodes closer to the center?

Let’s change them to Cusp nodes and move the arms to create a different shape.

Experiment with the different nodes and see what you can create!

Let’s see what can happen with shapes. 

The preset shapes offer endless design possibilities! Mix, match, and experiment to create your perfect shape.

What should you remember about nodes?

• Nodes are the foundation. Lines in Design Doodler and other embroidery softwares are created using points called nodes.
• Node type and spacing matter. The behavior of a line between two nodes is determined by the kind of nodes and their distance from each other.
• Keep it clean. Use as few nodes as possible to create smooth lines and maintain optimal program performance.

Explore the art of digitizing trees and plants, bringing the wonders of the outdoors into your embroidery projects. From textured trees to tall grass, we’ll show you step-by-step how to capture the essence of nature with every embroidery design you create.

How To Digitize Trees In Machine Embroidery

Digitizing an Oak Tree

When drawing trees, think of them as many connected objects, like the trunk and branches. Don’t see them as one big thing.

Let’s look at a majestic oak tree.

1. Insert your artwork into your embroidery software.
2. Outline the tree.
3. Mark out the large areas of the tree.
4. Using texture, create negative (empty) space and dense fills.
5. Create layers for color.
6. Add in visible branches and trunk.

Insert your artwork in your embroidery software.

Please outline the tree, but keep the details minimal as we only establish shapes.

Define the major components. Try using a different color- we can always change to another.

Decide on a texture to use; do NOT try to draw individual leaves. We only look for dark, medium, and light textural areas.

We’ll use vermicelli (or the running stitch), but you can use any style.

Here is how you look at your shapes. In this case, our shape has a light source on the upper left. Therefore the object will be lighter closer to the light and darker further away (think of it like the moon).

We will not fill it with solid stitches; this is just to illustrate. Here is our shape filled with our texture. You can make the darker parts by doodling many layers- using layers is better than making smaller turns.

Start by working from dark to light from object to object. Remember to overlap your objects to look more like a tree and less like a bunch of grapes!

Here is our tree with the objects filled.

Remove the outlines and add branches using a steil stitch (we used 2 mm). Remember that you do not need to “draw” in all the branches; only add the branches you can see.

Here is our finished tree!

And this is the design after it was stitched on the embroidery machine in one and two passes.

Digitizing a Pine Tree

A pine tree is truly an upside-down ice cream cone! The lower right will look dark, with our light source on the upper left. Since Pine trees are more open than other trees, you will see light through the tree. This makes the center of the tree an extremely dark area.

For this tree, we will use color to show dark and light. Let’s start by looking at a cone shaded.

Now, insert your artwork.

Here is the texture we want to use for the branches.

For this demonstration, we’ll use bright colors to see the top of the pictures. We will start with the “darkest” color. Remember that the tree’s center and the branches’ bottom will be dark.

When you have the dark areas defined, move to the light color (we’ll demonstrate this with pink).

Let’s change the colors to greens (light and dark) and see what we have!

And here is our final tree after we remove the artwork in the background.

After removing the background, we used a dark green to adjust and add some dark areas.

Here is our stitch-out!

How To Digitize Grass In Machine Embroidery

What about grass?

Grass is just a different type of “tree” with no branches. We will use the same concept above: look for the light source and choose two or three colors.

We will work from dark to light to create the volume. Here is the texture type we will use. Remember that you can experiment with the stitch length and the thread weight to create a more lifelike plant.

Insert your artwork in your embroidery software.

Define your texture. For this grass, we are following the directions displayed.

Work from dark to light to add the blades of grass.

Then, add the medium shading (we’ll use blue for this demonstration).

And finally, add the lightest shading (shown here in yellow).

Change your colors (dark, medium, and light) to your realistic colors.

And here is our completed clump of grass.

Conclusion: Practice Digitizing Nature In Machine Embroidery

With some practice, you can master all kinds of plants, flowers, and trees, which you can use to add some natural beauty to your stitchouts! 

1. When working on plants or trees, consider them as a group of objects; each object has a volume that you can illustrate with darks and lights.
2. Remember where your light source is.  This will help you create consistent volume.
3. To create darker areas, use layers of stitching and do not try to sketch dense areas.
4. Generally speaking, we work from dark to light and are not afraid of punches of white or other colors.
5. Consider experimenting with different stitch types, thread weights, and sketch styles to create your texture.  Don’t try to draw individual leaves.

From one embroiderer to another, we, too, have that overflowing pile of “I can use that later” fabric scraps. 

Today, it’s time to bust them out and create chic bookmarks for your friends, family, or yourself! Did we mention that they’re also super easy and budget-friendly?

Using the Design Doodler’s intuitive tools, even the smallest pieces of fabric can become stunning accessories for your favorite reads. Let’s explore the magic of upcycling and unleash your imagination to create unique bookmarks. 

Grab your Design Doodler Software, and let’s get stitching!

How To Doodle Your Embroidered Bookmark

Step 1: Click 3 Dots to change the Measurement settings to Imperial -inches> Click Close

Step 2: Select Running Stitch>Square. Drag out a Square.

Step 3: Select the Square> Select Properties Icon> Select Transform.

• Make sure ‘Maintain Aspect Ratio’ is Unchecked
• Change the Width to 2” and Height to 7”
• Unselect the Rectangle and change the Measurement setting back to Metric.

Step 4: Select the Rectangle > Copy and Paste, repeat. You will now have 3 Rectangles.

Step 5: Open the Sequence Docker.

Step 6: Open the Color Palette.

• Select the second Rectangle> Change to a new color.
• Select the third Rectangle> Change to a new color.
• These Rectangles will be the Placement Line, Tackdown Line for Batting, and Tackdown Line for Scrap fabric.

Step 7: Make sure Snap to Anchor is selected, indicated by a gray highlight.

Step 8: Select Bean Stitch and the Freehand Shape tool.

Step 9: Starting at the top left corner, Doodle a stippling pattern inside the rectangle. Make sure the lines do not cross over. If you lift your pen, you will see a black dot on the last stitch. Hover your pen over this dot to begin Doodling again where you left off.

Step 10: Select the First Rectangle> Copy and Paste. The copied rectangle will be at the bottom of the Sequence Docker. Select it.

Step 11: Open the Properties Docker > Change Stitch Length to 4.5mm > Bean Stitch> 7 Passes of Thread.

Step 12: Click the Save Icon> Name and Save this design as a JDX file. (JDX is the working editable file in the Design Doodler.)

Step 13: Select Save Icon> Scroll Down to find your machine format and Save it.

Supplies Needed:

• Fabric Scraps
• No-Show Mesh Stabilizer
• 3” x 8” Batting
• 6” x 8” Fabric
• Heat n Bond LITE
• Masking Tape
• Spray Adhesive
• Scissors
• Rotary Cutter
• Ruler
• Iron
• Parchment paper
• Optional – Grommet, Crop a Dile to cut and set Grommet, Ribbon, or Tassel

Making Your Embroidered Bookmark

Step 1: Iron on a piece of Heat n Bond LITE to the right side of the base fabric.

Step 2: Remove the paper.

Step 3: Use your fabric scraps and randomly place them over the Heat n Bond. Try not to overlap the scraps too much and trim where necessary so there are no large pieces that won’t be held in place by the Heat n Bond.

Step 4: Place Parchment paper over the top of the fabric scraps—iron to secure the scraps in place.

Step 5: Use a rotary cutter to cut the scrap fabric in half. One will be for the front of the bookmark and the other for the back.

Step 6: Stitch the Placement Line. Remove the Hoop.

Step 7: Lay the batting over the top and secure it with tape.

Step 8: Stitch the Tackdown Line. Remove the Hoop. Trim away the excess batting.

Step 9: Lightly spray the back of 1 Scrap fabric with adhesive. Place over the Batting. Smooth in place, secure with tape.

Step 10: Turn the hoop over and repeat with the other Scrap fabric piece. Carefully place the hoop on your machine, ensuring the bottom fabric is secure. Stitch the Tackdown Line and the rest of the design. Remove the hoop.

Step 11: Carefully trim 1/8” away from the rectangle Bean Stitch.

Step 12: OPTIONAL: Add Grommet

• Use Crop A Dile or hole cutter to make a hole for the grommet. Attach Grommet
• Use a Ribbon or a Decorative tassel fed through the Grommet.

You’ve now turned your fabric scraps into a functional, stylish bookmark! Adding flair to your reading experience is just that easy!

Do you want to breathe life into your embroidery designs?

With your embroidery software, let’s learn how to make lifelike facial features such as the eyes, nose, and mouth. We’ll show you what it takes to turn your fabric canvas into a masterpiece with embroidery digitizing!

Knowing how to create realistic facial features starts with understanding highlighting and shading to display depth and realism. From expressive eyes to detailed noses and lips, let’s bring personality and realism to your next embroidery design!

How To Digitize Eyes In Machine Embroidery

Let’s start with the window to the soul, the eyes!

This is a picture of a human eye.

The shape of an eye gets a bit easier if you understand what shape it actually is and how it fits into the skull.

The eyeball is a large globe! The part visible is only a small part of the whole eye as the eyelids cover a majority of it.

This is the reason the corners of the eye seem sunken in.

The easiest way to practice is to work over a picture of a real eye and learn from repetition.

Let’s start with a basic eye. Draw the oval opening of the eye.

Close the inside of the eye by digitizing the bulge where the tear duct sits.

The iris is the round-colored part of the eye. It needs to be as circular as you can make it! When tracing the iris, zoom in on the artwork as it will make the line more steady.

Next comes the pupil. This is the dark part of the eyeball. It looks black because it is a little window into the inside of the eyeball, and there is no light in there.

Have you ever noticed when you take a picture and get a “redeye”? It appears this way from the light reflecting off the back of the eye, which has a lot of blood vessels.

Anytime after you digitize the pupil, you can add a highlight.

We will use our outline of the iris to guide us where to fill in the color. We need that round line to guide us.

Since the eyelids stretch to close, like when you blink or sleep, the skin stretches out. When you open your eyes, the skin folds over and creates creases that can be made with simple running lines.

We will also add a heavier satin stitch line to illustrate the thickness of the eyelid. In this case, less is more; don’t make these lines too heavy and dense.

Now, add a little bit of shading. Just because it is “shading,” don’t be tempted to use only black. Experiment with other colors like brown, green, purple, and pink.

Add a few lashes to your upper and lower eyelids. Remember, the lashes inside of the eye are usually shorter than those on the outer corner.

Here is the final result of the embroidered eye.

After learning the basics, you can add more features to create a design like this!

How To Digitize A Nose In Machine Embroidery

Let’s move on to the nose!

With many different shapes, you can easily create your own unique nose. You can draw noses in many ways, from a simple swoop to a more detailed one.

This is what the frontal nose looks like:

We will start pretty basic! Let’s outline the main ridges of the nose.

To create depth, we will use three colors—light color for the whole nose, medium, and dark. We will use some dark (black) for the inside of the nostrils.

How To Digitize A Mouth In Machine Embroidery

Well, we’ve arrived at the mouth!

Drawing a mouth can be easy; from a simple line to complicated artwork, they can be one of the best ways to show emotion.

People often find mouths difficult to draw until they understand some of the shapes of the mouth. The lips are light and dark colors, and you can use simple lines to depict the shape.

But we’ll create something a little more detailed….

We’ll start with a straight line to show how the opening of the mouth curves up and down to make the “cupids bow.” You don’t need to digitize this, but keep it in mind.

Digitize around the lips for a neutral-colored fill.

We will hide that lip fill for now and work on using three colors to show the shadows and highlights that create the lips.

First, the darker areas exist between the lips, and second, the lower lip’s undercut creates a shadow.

These lips are slightly dry; as you can see, some creases create the skin’s texture. We’ll use a medium color in a bean stitch to highlight those.

Now, let’s use a darker color to continue the texture creases. We will use this closer to the bottom of the lower lip and the center of the mouth. Be careful not to use too much!

We ran a line back and forth along the center of the mouth for more definition. You will also notice a single run line around the lips; this is just for more definition but we don’t want it heavy!

Lastly, we’ll add some white highlights again, using those creases in the skin to capture that light!

Now let’s add back the background and see what we have!

Add in a neutral background and we have an awesome set of lips!

Easily Create Your Own Embroidery Designs

Bringing life to your machine embroidery designs lies at your fingertips! Embroidering realistic facial features is as easy as tracing using artwork when using the Design Doodler. Remember that creating realistic designs takes practice, but what better time to start than now?

Our easy step-by-step guide has just what you need to transform your bucket hat into a one-of-a-kind embroidered piece. We’ve got some great tips and tricks to make the process a breeze and make them stand out.

Bucket hats are easier to embroider than caps. You can do them on a flatbed hoop, magnetic, or cap driver.

Your bucket hats are about to become your favorite canvas – let’s embroider them together!

Bucket Hat Embroidery Designs

Bucket hats are not heavily stabilized, which is great because they can be easily embroidered.

You can embroider anywhere on a bucket hat, but in this article, we’ll focus on the front crown and brim.

Most designs stitch great, even on the brim, because they make most of these hats from cotton. Please ensure the brim is created with soft fabric before embroidering.

Because bucket hats have smaller front crowns, the design you embroider should not be larger than 2.5 inches tall or exceed 4 inches wide.

Though the vertical part of the bucket hat appears straight, it is not. Adjust your design if you’d like to fit this slight curve.

If you use letters, curve them if possible.

Materials To Embroider A Bucket Hat

• Stabilizer: We suggest using a medium-weight cutaway, but you can use any type that works for you.  Just remember that you need to stabilize your work so it wears well.
• Scissors
• Temporary embroidery spray
• Tape to secure your hat
• Ruler
• Pins
• Fabric marker (optional)
• Embroidery software (only required if you want to edit your embroidery designs to curve perfectly on the brim of your hat)
• Embroidery design
• Bucket hat

How To Hoop A Bucket Hat For Embroidery

You can hoop a bucket hat on a cap driver for a multi-needle machine in the same fashion as you would a cap. Since not everyone has a cap frame, we’ll focus on how to hoop these by “floating” on the stabilizer.

You will want to choose a firm stabilizer, like a medium tearaway or sticky stabilizer.

Start by hooping your piece of stabilizer.

Pin the center of your bucket hat in the hoop. You can find the center point by folding it in half.

Mark the center point.

Line up your points to mark a center line on the hat.

Line up your hat brim’s center point with the hoop’s center point and pin near the seam. Align the top center point and pin to the hooped stabilizer.

How To Embroider A Bucket Hat Brim

Lay your hat flat and take a picture of the brim curve. You’ll use this to create a placement line for perfect results.

Hoop your stabilizer and stitch the placement line. Remove your hoop from the machine.

Spray your stabilizer with a light spray of temporary embroidery spray.

Align the bucket hat along the placement line and pin it in place. Secure the remaining fabric of the hat using tape, pins, or clips to hold it away from the embroidery machine’s touch.

Place your hoop in the machine and embroider!

Do you want to embroider on the front crown of the bucket hat? Here’s how you do it…

How To Embroider A Bucket Hat

Fold the sweatband towards the brim of the hat. Secure it with a pin. This will prevent it from coming into contact with the machine.

Turn it right side out and pin the center bottom and top of the hat side on your hoop (align the center line with the center of your hoop).

Fold the hat over to expose the stabilizer. Lightly use a temporary adhesive spray to spray the hat fabric to the stabilizer. Do the same for the other side.

Smooth out the hat, but remember to let the fabric curve naturally.

Secure the excess fabric close to the hoop using pins, clips, or tape to prevent the machine from embroidering it.

Place your hoop in the machine (be sure to trace or check correct placement), and begin to embroidery. Watch the machine carefully to ensure the fabric is not close to the needles or your presser foot.

After you finish stitching your design, voila, you have finished your personalized bucket hat!

Create Your Own Embroidered Bucket Hat

For those of you who like a challenge, why not create one from scratch? Many easy sewing patterns are available online. You can use a picture of your pattern in embroidery software to make a placement line for a custom bucket hat.

Insert your artwork inside those lines and embroider before you put the hat together.

You can create small designs or multi hoop if you have smaller hoops. Here is a truly unique hat made from an old throw pillow. What are you going to revamp?

Conclusion

Bucket hats are a fun way to personalize your style. Using the floating method allows multi- and single-needle embroidery machine users to embroider.

Here are a few important tips to remember:

• Pin the sweatband away from the front crown when embroidering.
• Make sure to smooth the lining and the hat fabric.
• Revise your design accordingly because of the curved brim.
•  When embroidering, ensure the hat material isn’t in the way of the machine presser foot or needles.

You can transform a basic hat into a unique accessory that reflects your personal style with practice and creativity. Give it a try, and we can’t wait to see your results.

Although the explanation above is rather simple, I assure you that there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. Embroidery digitizing is like painting with stitches, and just like painting, certain rules apply.

Digitizing is all about understanding how thread interacts with fabric and learning how to use software to get the results you want. Choosing the appropriate stitch type, settings, & direction is where the real learning curve is involved.

What All Can I Digitize into Embroidery?

This is where the real fun is involved.

For example, you can digitize things like your kids’ drawings, a company’s logo, or an internet image.

Now keep in mind, there are some limitations in place. Unlike printing something, machine embroidery has more limitations in place because we’re dealing with physical mediums like thread and fabric. That said, you couldn’t digitize the Mona Lisa onto a 2-inch patch and expect the same level of detail.

Do I Need To Be Artistic To Digitize?

I can barely draw a stick figure, yet I’ve won 30 awards for digitizing in the commercial industry and have done work for thousands of large corporations. Although I’m not an artist, I would certainly consider myself ‘creative’.

You can be a very creative person and still not be an artist. Every machine embroidery hobbyist I’ve met I would consider to be creative. This means that you’re just as qualified to become a digitizer as anyone else!

How Long Does It Take To Learn Embroidery Digitizing?

Like any hobby, having proper instruction & experiencing positive results will reflect the amount of interest you have in learning. Things like underlay stitches, understanding the three basic embroidery stitch types (running stitch, fill and satin stitches), push & pull compensation, and density are all key aspects that must be considered when learning how to transform artwork into an embroidery design.

I understand that some of these words (or all of them) might be new to you and seem foreign. The main thing to remember is that like painting, digitizing is an art form that simply requires patience and, of course, a guiding hand from the right instructor.

What Do I Need to Start Embroidery Digitizing?

There are a few things you will need to start your digitizing journey.

Access to an embroidery machine is essential. Without stitching out your digitized designs, you will not see where your errors are. As I always say, what you see on your screen isn’t always the same as your stitched outcome. Trial and error will be your new motto!

If you went for a run, would you wear your flip-flops or your running shoes? Using a mouse in digitizing is like wearing flip-flops. You can still run, but you’ll likely take longer. Using a pen tablet not only helps with your creativity, but it makes digitizing faster and more fun!

Embroidery Digitizing Is Not New (Sort of)

Although embroidery software and embroidery file formats are new and constantly evolving, the age-old rules of how thread interacts with fabric are not. In fact, they’re thousands of years old!

Now keep in mind that machine embroidery (compared to hand embroidery) is still somewhat new, starting in the nineteenth century. But still, contrary to popular belief, embroidery digitizing didn’t start with computers.

No, machine embroidery used to be done on Schiffli looms that were 10-15 yards long and produced hundreds of pieces at a time. These machines were operated by Schiffli master digitizers who manually commanded and traced each stitch in live time (each master apprenticed for 10 years to learn their trade)!

I’m proud to say that as far I know, I am the last Schiffli master digitizer still alive and teaching in North America (I know most of you know my story, so I’ll stop it there)…

The point I’m trying to make is that although these days software makes things A LOT easier by putting most of the digitizing process on “autopilot” for you, embroidery is an artform dealing with the physical mediums of thread and fabric which are governed by rules.

Because of this, there is some basic embroidery theory that every embroiderer should learn to really understand how embroidery designs are created and how to get the best results, even if you don’t want to learn how to digitize fully!

I Want To Try Digitizing. Where Do I Begin?

Conclusion: Is Embroidery Digitizing For You?

The thing about embroidery digitizing is that it’s like olives… some people really like it, some people really don’t. Either way is fine! I realize that digitizing is not for everyone; it’s either you love it or hate it.

So is machine embroidery digitizing for you? Well, there’s only one way to find out…

Before you invest any money in digitizing software, check out our Free Embroidery Digitizing 101: Video Course & Cheat Sheet. Whether you want to digitize or not, the theory you’ll learn will help improve every aspect of your embroidery…

… Plus, it’s 100% free! What do you have to lose? Best of luck in your digitizing journey and please feel free to reach out if you have any questions! Remember the name of our site says it all EmbroideryLegacy.com

Texture is vital in embroidering people’s and animals’ fur and hair. We will build on the skills we learned in our first embroidery portrait article.

We’ll look at a few ways of filling your outline and creating some texture. Our goal is to use less fill when creating designs to avoid excessive stitching, resulting in bulletproof embroidery. Instead, we will use color blocking and embellish the fills with additional textural lines.

Embroidery Texture Accents

Texture accents are when you add a few more lines to accentuate something in your portrait. It makes a beautiful addition to your line drawing!

In a few strokes, it can take line-drawn dog embroidery to a fluffy furry friend.

Embroidery Texture Fill

Texture fills are basically more lines added in to flesh out the design. Try this after working through the general outlines. These will provide detail and can bring the subject to life. Using texture lines is effective in creating a 3-dimensional face.

Let’s discuss an easy way of picking what you will accent and how much to do.

Start with an outline you like. We suggest choosing a simple animal with short or medium hair with only a few colors.

We’re using Mille, a super cute Shih Tzu, for this example. Here are the steps we took:

1. Choose a good-quality photo (not a thumbnail; you might need to resize it larger).
2. Insert the photo into your Design Doodler Software.
3. Create a basic outline.
   1. Draw around the perimeter.
   2. Draw in the eyes (just the iris and outline of the eye. Right now, we will not color the iris and pupil).

4. Outline the nose; simple is all you need.

5. Choose several features to outline

• Chin
• Ears
• Snout
• Any fur feature that makes your furry friend unique.
• Remember, less is more! Experiment with the least amount of detail you can use.

Adding Texture In Embroidery

With this simple outline, we can create fill and texture with lines! Adding texture using lines can simulate a couple of things:

• Depth and shadow
• Color

Let’s explore both of these techniques.

Look back at Millie; she has recessed eyes, neck, and ears, and her nose is sticking out. You can fill in more to show depth.

Look at Millie again; she has basically three colors on her face: black, grey, and white.

We can use more line fill to show darks and lights. Fill darker colors more, fill light colors less, or even leave them blank!

Practice with a basic pet picture. Add more fill for darker colors and recessed areas to make your stitching come alive. Let’s check out color blocking!

Embroidery Color Blocking

Color blocking in fashion changes how the body looks without changing the body itself. It involves using clothing as a canvas to create bold and contrasting colors.

We will use this theory to fill in and reduce stitches while still creating a great portrait. We can find the “color blocks” and turn them into digital form. Then, we can use our line technique to fill and add texture.

One of the first ways to color block is to change how we look at pictures. When you get right down to it, pictures are just areas of color, some large and some small. We will stay on a huge scale. We have a couple of tricks to make it easy for you.

If you have not heard of a “cartoonizer,” check them out online. Free versions can get you started. A cartoonizer is a graphics program that takes a picture and adds filters. Some will allow you to color block.

Here is what Millie looks like when she is color-blocked.

If we break this down into three colors (light, medium, and dark), here is how the cartoonizer helps.

Using this information, this is what she looks like as a filled digitized dog.

Different variations of this technique exist, but here are things to keep in mind:

• Your color blocks don’t have to touch each other; sometimes, a little gap helps give the design some interest.
• You can leave areas blank if you’re stitching on white.
• Use a less dense fill. Shade these areas, but they don’t necessarily need to be covered.
• You can use loose fills and overlap them to blend.
• Remember that your fill does not have to all go in the same direction. Changing the stitch direction will create some nice texture and 3D effects.

Putting them all together

Whether you choose one or all techniques, they can produce a great result! Here is what Millie looks like with all the techniques together.

In future articles, we will discuss eyes and other features like noses in further detail. However, here are some examples of eyes and noses.

A colored area (the iris) and a dark (almost black center that looks into the eye (the pupil) exist. Because it is a wet sphere, you will often see a glint of light or white. Please be careful adding these. The satin stitch is your best choice, and please keep it minimal!

Also, remember that accents are not in the same place on each eye! If you are working from a photograph, use that for guidance.

Here is the order you build your eyes:

1. Lay down a crescent of color for the pupil.
2. Digitize your pupil (the dark part) and make sure they overlap; it is one place we want saturated color.
3. Add your glimmer of the eye using the satin stitch.

Here is another take on the eyes.

Great use of black and white and just colored eyes to make them pop!

Other tricks to create embroidery fur

Let’s look at different types of fur…

• The picture above displays short fur, which you can achieve with just a single line. You can use short zig zags or hash marks for the slightly longer hairs.
• Exceedingly long fur, like Miss Kitty, requires a combination of color block fill and hair texture.

You can see the beige underlay under the long hair.

• To create curly fur, you can draw out the curls and fill the tips or darker areas.

Other ideas!

We have absolutely NO end to the possibilities! Your imagination is the only limit to what you can create.

Many other ideas you can try!

• Create easy fur using applique! A fun fabric, fur can create beautiful textures and patterns.
• Use a coarse woven fabric and fray the edges for a more 3D fur appearance.
• Experience with different colors. Who says a Doberman must be black and white, not purple and green?
• Try out permanent watercolor pencils and see what a little imagination and an iron can do!!

Check out what permanent watercolor pencils did to our portrait of Mille.

Conclusion: Create Your Own Dog and Cat Embroidery Designs

Of course we had to share what Miss Millie would look like and all the techniques we just went over together.

We have covered a lot, but there will be more in future articles about pets and people. We will focus on eyes, noses, and other unique features to make your portraits great!

Here are some of the main takeaways we have for you:

• Less is more! We tend to do too much, which muddies the portrait.
• Use computer aids until you are more adept. Try using a cartoonizer or other graphics program to simplify your design.
• Create your own take on the portrait. Each artist has their own unique point of view. You may create a Millie design in a whole new way!

Remember to start slow. It takes time to learn how to make portraits with the Doodler or other software. Starting simple makes the process easier.